The second connection is the drain, which empties into a special fitting on the sink drain tailpiece. The third connection is the electrical one, and whether you make a permanent, hard-wired connection or install a plug and receptacle is up to you. A dishwasher runs on volt power, and the terminals for the electrical connections are behind it, near the floor. You may see a brass screw -- designed for the hot wire -- and a silver one for the neutral wire.
Or you may see a black hot wire and a white neutral one. The ground connection is usually a green grounding screw. You have the option of connecting a pigtail -- a wire with a plug on the other end -- or of connecting the terminals permanently to the circuit wires in the wall, which is called hard-wiring.
When you install a pigtail on your dishwasher, you must plug it into a three-prong receptacle. The Wire Stripper and Wire Cutter. A wire stripping tool used to safely strip electrical wires. This handy tool has multiple uses: The wire gauges are shown on the side of the tool so you know which slot to use for stripping insulation. The end of the tool can be used to grip and bend wire which is handy for attaching wire onto the screw terminals of switches and outlets.
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I was able to get this done. This site is perfect. I am glad I found it. Otherwise, if the dishwasher has a cord and cap, you should have an appliance receptacle installed where it can be reached. An appliance receptacle is an outlet with only one place to plug something in. If your state doesn't require the dishwasher being GFCI protected, they'll absolutely want to make sure you use a single appliance receptacle so nothing else can be connected to the unprotected receptacle.
Finally, if directly wiring it, just make sure you use the appropriate connector if the vendor doesn't supply one. Be kind to your future self, or anyone else that has to pull the dishwasher out in the future to service it by leaving enough cable to be able to pull it out and off to the side. Make sure the cable is secured properly wherever it is fed, and protected anywhere that it may be exposed on its path to the dishwasher.
Current code suggests a dedicated line run to the breaker box for use with the dishwasher. Unfortunately, with this arrangement, the motor and heating element will consume most of your available amps leaving you in a situation where you cannot use other things while the dishwasher is running.
On use of grounding and GFCI's No matter what you do, ground the dishwasher to a reliable ground. If you are using new wire, this will be easy. Just hook up the green or bare wire to the frame of the dishwasher and bond the other end to the breaker box ground. For safety, be sure that the pipes are bonded to the box ground or at least earth ground. There is no prohibition on the use of GFCI in this circuit. The electronics in new GFCI devices greatly reduces nuisance tripping.
This looks like a GFCI outlet with no holes to plug anything in- and could be mounted at the counter top for accessibility. My installation: Dishwasher recommends 15 - 20 amp I ran 12 MC Flex up and over through the attic to the washer and popped out of the wall to a box attached to the inside of the cabinet next to the washer.
I attached a 10 stranded appliance cord to the washer with a 20A plug. I did this so I could have GFCI protection and also if the washer had a significant malfunction requiring immediate reaction, the cord could be pulled out without having to find the right breaker.
I have used this setup for over two years and have not had any trouble from it. MC Flex metal clad is a bit of overkill for residential unless your local building code requires it , you can just use Romex if you wish. If you are using 14 wire, do not exceed 15A. If you use 12 wire, you can safely use 20A breaker unless your dishwasher specifies 15A only.
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